Saturday 17 May: A Disapointing Last Day
Another gloriously hot and sunny day, clear blue skies.
Last night, we stopped with Jan and Michael at the Rose Cottage bed and breakfast in Fort Augustus. It was superb, and we would highly recommend staying with them if you are in the area.
Today was the last day of our holiday before we fly back to Manchester tomorrow. We had planned to walk around Fort Augustus in the morning and then go out on Loch Ness in a rib in the afternoon before travelling to Inverness Airport.
However, a fault symbol appeared on our all-singing Renault Astrale Esprit Alpine hire car. After two and a half hours of being passed around in circles, Alamo finally arranged for the car to be picked up by a recovery vehicle and for the driver to drop us off at Inverness Airport. So we did not see Fort Augustus or go Nessie hunting, which was a great disappointment.
But one bit of good news: my mobile, which I lost, has been found in a pub we visited after finishing the Big Burn Walk. It had fallen into the toilet bowl and got stuck in the waste pipes. A plumber called to clear the blockage, found it!! The staff are drying it out and returning it to me, but I doubt if it will work.
It has been a wonderful holiday. The Scottish Highlands are magnificent and awe-inspiring, with their views, superb beaches, and beautiful lochs, hills, and mountains. We would recommend the North Coast 500 as a wonderful, relaxing, and peaceful holiday. You will not see better views or beaches anywhere in the world.
We’re back home tomorrow. Our first job will be to lose the extra weight we have put on, get back to sensible eating, and restart our exercise regime.
Friday 16 May: A Delightful Drive Through Amazing Countryside
Another glorious day, with bright sunshine and a clear blue sky, very warm.
Today, we leave the Gairloch Highland Lodge, which provided last-minute accommodation after our booking at the Old Curing Station on Dry Island Badachro fell through. While the hotel was basic, it was clean and offered a nice shower and breakfast. But what truly set our stay apart was the staff—exceptionally friendly and helpful, they went above and beyond to enhance our customer experience.
After leaving Gairloch, we headed to the Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve, which boasts stunning views of Loch Maree. We took a delightful one-hour walk through ancient woodlands, enjoying every moment.
Next, we ventured to Shieldaig, a picturesque village overlooking Loch Torridon. Opposite the village lies Shieldaig Island, a bird sanctuary managed by the National Trust for Scotland, where Sea Eagles have nested in recent years.
Historically, Shieldaig was established in the early 1800s to encourage local villagers to fish for herring and thus cultivate a stock of trained seamen for the Royal Navy.
Today, the local economy thrives on fishing and tourism. There are salmon farms in the area, along with a smokehouse in the village. We observed creels on the pier, used to catch what locals refer to as “prawns,” which are actually nephrops, resembling mini-lobsters. Crabs and scallops are also plentiful here.
We had lunch at Nanny’s, a charming cafe on the seafront that served delicious homemade food.
Next, our journey took us on a long (84-mile) drive across country to Fort Augustus. While this should have been an easy drive, there were long stretches of single-track roads and narrow two-lane roads that demanded full concentration and were thus very tiring. However, the phenomenal views and breathtaking scenery made every moment worthwhile.
We’re staying at Rose Cottage Bed and Breakfast in Fort Augustus, where owners Jan and Michael extended a warm and very friendly welcome. Jan eagerly showed us around the house, while Michael kindly took our luggage to our room. The house is superb and elegantly appointed, and our bedroom (Room 2) is spacious, featuring a super king bed.
Tomorrow, Saturday, marks our final day touring the Highlands. Time has flown by, but we have thoroughly enjoyed every single minute of this incredible journey.
Thursday 15 May: Relaxing Day in Gairloch
It was another lovely sunny day with clear blue skies. It was cool at first, but by lunchtime, it had become very warm.
In the morning, we were due to go on a Shellfish Safari in a traditional working fishing boat to see langoustine, creels, and lobster pots hauled from the deep, but sadly it was cancelled.
Instead, we walked around Gairloch. Gairloch is a small fishing village with a population of just under 700 situated on the shore of Loch Gairloch amongst the awe-inspiring scenery of Wester Ross.
We first visited the museum, which is housed in an old, reinforced concrete nuclear bunker built during the Cold War. Two of the six-inch reinforced doors are used as exhibition stands. The museum offers diverse exhibits highlighting local history, culture, and the natural environment. Highlights include the original lens from Rubh Re lighthouse, a replica croft house, an interactive natural world gallery, a Pictish Symbol stone, and a 25-minute video of local people discussing how life in Gairloch has changed over the last few hundred years, which was fascinating.
After the museum, we took a stroll around the picturesque small harbour. On our way there, we spotted a lovely beach in the distance, but could not see how to get there. We eventually found a sign pointing up a steep hill saying, “Beach 1km.” But despite walking for around 15 minutes, we never saw the beach!!
By the afternoon, it had become very hot, so we returned to our hotel and found a nice place in the shade to read and relax.
For our evening meal, we went to the Badachro Inn. This involved driving along a narrow, winding single-track road with many blind corners for three miles. During this, we encountered a few locals who appeared to be practicing to be motor racing drivers. But we finally made it without incident and were seated in the lovely conservatory with spectacular views overlooking Loch Gairloch. The food was enjoyable without being anything special.
We have eaten far too much this holiday. Once back home, we must return to exercise and healthy eating to lose these excess pounds.
Wednesday 14 May: Scenic Views and a Disapointing Ending
Another glorious day—sunny, with not a cloud in the sky, very hot, reminiscent of summer in Spain.
We were sad to leave Jo and Trevor at Ardmore House Bed and Breakfast. We loved our stay with them, and they easily rank as the best hosts we have encountered on this trip.
We made our way to Ullapool, the main settlement on the West Coast. The scenery and views on the drive were magnificent, reminding us of our travels in New Zealand, with narrow roads, stunning landscapes, lakes, lochs, impressive hills, and mountains. The views of Loch Broom as we neared Ullapool were simply unbelievable.
Ullapool is a charming small fishing village with quaint houses and a busy harbour nestled on the shore of Lochbroom.
We enjoyed visiting the Museum and Visitor Centre in Ullapool, which is run by volunteers and housed in an old church. It shared the story of Ullapool, the lives of the crofters, the clearances, and the rise and fall of the fishing industry over the years. The more we learn about the clearances, the angrier we feel about the cruelty and cold-heartedness of the landowners involved.
For lunch, we went to the Seafood Shack in Ullapool, a food wagon located by the side of the Ullapool Outdoors store on West Argyle Street, directly across from the Ullapool Museum. The Seafood Shack is owned by two locals, Kirsty and Fenella, who set up the business in 2016. They sell fresh fish sourced directly from local boats. We had fried haddock and salad in a wrap, which was delicious. If you are in Ullapool, we can definitely recommend it. After lunch, we had an enjoyable walk around the village and harbour.
By the time we left Ullapool the sun and travel had taken a toll on us, so we decided to skip visiting Corrieshalloch Gorge and Nature Reserve and head directly to Dry Island, Badachro, where we were booked for the night at The Old Curing Station. The journey once again treated us to magnificent scenery.
However, upon arriving at Dry Island, we discovered that the Old Curing Station was quite a distance from the parking area. Not only was it a long walk, but we also had to navigate narrow, twisting steps and traverse a very narrow, uneven concrete walkway before crossing a floating bridge made of wooden slats. There was simply no way we could wheel or carry our two large suitcases down to our accommodation.
So, we searched for an alternative place to stay and finally found a room at The Gairloch Highland Lodge, which is basic but meets our needs. We sent an email to the owner of the Old Curring Station, who replied that if we had said that, he could have arranged to have our luggage delivered to the island by boat!!
Most of the roads we traveled today were narrow, twisting, and winding, requiring full concentration. Thankfully, many were two lanes; however, we did encounter some narrow single-lane roads, and I had to reverse twice for the first time this holiday. Luckily, both times happened on straight stretches.
We were exhausted from the travel and the heat when we reached our hotel. We took a quick shower and then spent the rest of the evening relaxing.
Tuesday 13 May: A Day of Commitment and Celebration at Ardmore House
Another gloriously sunny day, the warmest so far.
The day started very well with a superb breakfast served up by Jo at Ardmore House. She makes her own bread, compote, and marmalade, all served up with a fabulous choice of food.
Then it was off to another spectacular beach, Achmelvick Bay, 10 minutes from Ardmore House. It was like being in the Bahamas: pure white sand stretching round in an arc and crystal clear turquoise blue water. So peaceful and beautiful.
A quick cup of coffee at the An Cala Cafe in Lochinver, then out on a 90-minute wildlife boat tour with North Coast Sea Tours. We did not see much wildlife, some sea birds, and seals on the rocks enjoying the sunshine, but it was delightful.
We had lunch at Lochinver Larder, which is famous for its wide range of meat pies, which it sends all over the world. Highly recommended, it can’t be booked, and at peak times, you may have to queue.
We then returned to Ardmore House to conduct a hand-fasting ceremony, during which couples re-commit themselves to each other. We sat on a bench in Jos’s garden, bound our hands with ribbon to symbolise our commitment, and read statements indicating our love for one another.
In marriage, you often reach a point where you take each other for granted, love each other but don’t show it, presuming your partner will always be there. But when one goes, the one who is left then realises what the person they have lost meant to them. Often regretting that they did not show it more when they were together. Hopefully, our small handfasting ceremony today will remind Sue and me how important we are to each other and how we must make the most of the days we have left together and never forget to show our love for one another.
For our evening meal, we had a superb fresh crab salad that we had bought from the An Cala Cafe after our boat ride, and Jo had kindly put in her fridge for us. We ate it at Ardmore House together with Jos’s bread, which Jo had just got out of the oven, and butter. There is nothing like fresh seafood.
Monday 12 May: Breathtaking scenery on the West Coast
The day began under an overcast sky but soon transformed into blazing sunshine.
We started our day at the stunning beach where John Lennon spent his teenage holidays with his family at Sango Sands Bay, Durness. They stayed with his auntie Lizzie, who lived in the area. Inspired by these memories, he penned the song ‘In My Life’. He visited his Aunt Lizzie’s cottage with Yoko in 1969.
While perhaps not as magnificent as Strathy Bay, this beach still ranked among the finest we had ever encountered. It was absolutely stunning.
Our next stop was Balnakeil Craft Village. Despite the mixed reviews on TripAdvisor, we found it delightful. We visited several studios: Mudness Ceramics, Balnakeil Glass, Cast of Crafts, and Cocoa Mountain, a charming chocolatier and café.
A short drive brought us to the breathtaking Smoo Cave, a magnificent, cathedral-like cave that was free to visit.
Our journey then took us down the stunning West Coast toward Scourie. This involved driving down 14 miles of twisting single-track road. Despite several cars and camper vans on the road, the many pull-in stops meant I did not have to practice my reversing skills.
The West Coast scenery was nothing short of extraordinary, outshining even our cherished memories of New Zealand’s landscapes. The highlands offered an endless array of breathtaking vistas. Amazing.
We enjoyed a lovely lunch at Crofters Kitchen, a food wagon in Scourie that serves the fresh seafood caught by local fishermen. We can’t recommend it highly enough; the food was wonderful.
In the afternoon, we set out to discover Wailing Widow Falls. We had heard you had to walk up a stony path and scramble over small boulders, but we found it a little more demanding than people had made out. Despite this, we made it to the falls and witnessed a powerful waterfall cascading 50 feet from Loch na Gainmhich.
We are staying at Ardmore House Bed and Breakfast in Lochinver, which we can highly recommend. Jo, the lively, outgoing owner, enthusiastically welcomed us and delighted us by showing us around the house and our bedroom. She even offered us a laundry service, which we gladly accepted. Our spacious, well-equipped, spotlessly clean bedroom features excellent Wi-Fi, a rare find in the highlands.
The house is nestled down a long driveway, offering an isolated and peaceful refuge. This evening, Jo’s chickens made a charming escape, frolicking in the garden, and while Sue sat in the sunshine, she spotted a couple of deer gracefully wandering by.
Sunday 11 May: Exploring the Northern Highlands: A Journey to Stunning Beaches and Scenic Views
Another glorious sunny day, we have certainly struck lucky with the weather.
We have spent the first four days traveling up the East Coast from Inverness to John O’Groats. The highlands remind us of New Zealand. Everywhere you travel, there is stunning scenery; from what we have heard, the West Coast is even more beautiful.
Today, we started traveling along the northern part of the highlands. Our first stop was Dunnet Head, the northernmost point of mainland Britain. It was windy, but the views were stunning.
We then travelled to Strathy Bay, where we found the most stunning beach we have ever seen. If you are in this area, it’s a must-see location. Unfortunately, it’s not the easiest beach to find. You will not get to it if you try to use Sat Nav. Looking on Google Maps does not help either.
Directions to find it: Approach on the A836 heading towards Strathy from Melvich. After the ‘Welcome to Strathy’ sign on your left, you go over a cattle grid. Immediately look over the other side of the road. See what looks like a dirt track, which takes you up past the side of the North Coast Parish Church of Scotland, Strathy. Follow this single-track road, which twists and turns for a mile or so until you see a cemetery on your right. Turn into the beach car park immediately after this.
On our way to Durness we saw another stunning beach at Coldbackie but we could not see how to get to it from the road.
We then traveled on to Ard Neackie Lime Kilns. We parked in the lay-by that people recommend, but it was a long walk to the kilns. We would have had to walk on the road for quite a distance before making our way across a sand causeway. We decided it was not worth it.
The road from the Kilns to Durness takes you nineteen miles around Loch Eriboll with fantastic views of the loch, islands in the loch, and the hills around it. The challenge was that the road was single-lane, which I was very nervous about. My reversing skills are not good, so the thought of meeting another car or camper van and returning along the road filled me with dread. But there were lots of pull-in points and so it worked well and I did not have to practice my reversing skills.
We are staying overnight at the Wild Orchard Guest House, Durness. It’s not a guest house but a small hotel with eight identical bedrooms. It is spotless, well-equipped, and maintained, and we received a very warm welcome from Hanna, the owner. They have a small, award-winning restaurant that seats 12 people. Jack, Hanna’s partner, does the cooking. We had dinner, which was superb. It was like eating at a five-star high-end restaurant. The downside was that the bedroom was small, with little space to move around or put luggage. It had a small double bed and a tiny shower, which made it challenging to have a shower.
Saturday 10 May: Exploring the North East Coast: A Day in Caithness
Another sunny day but with a strong breeze.
We had hoped to go on a 90-minute rib tour coastal adventure with Caithness Sea Coast Tours, but unfortunately, they moved it to the afternoon, which was no good for us.
So we had a leisurely morning, not leaving our hotel until 10:30 a.m. We then looked around the Wick Heritage Centre and Museum. This volunteer-run museum is housed in three old cottages. There was a fascinating range of rooms covering numerous different aspects of Wick’s history. The place had the feel of the Tardis, as you kept finding new rooms and levels.
In the afternoon, we visited Castle Sinclair Girnigoe. These are the ruins of two castles, the 15th-century Castle Girnigoe and the early 17th-century Castle Sinclair, located in a stunning coastal setting. One gruesome tale concerns the 4th Earl of Caithness, who imprisoned his son John Sinclair in Castle Girnigoe on suspicion of rebelling against him. He was held for 7 years, after which his father fed him a diet of salted beef with nothing to drink, so that he eventually died insane from thirst.
We ended the day at John O’Groats, which most people consider the most northerly point of the British Mainland. This title should go to Dunnet’s Head, which is 2.35 miles further north than John O’Groats.
John O’Groats was disappointing; there is very little to see, and it has a rundown feel. More interesting is Duncansby Head, which is a short drive away. Here you can follow the coastal path to see the Geo of Sciaites, a huge gap in the cliffs on which there are thousands of sea birds, and a little further on are the very impressive Duncansby Head Sea Stacks, which rise 60m from the sea.
We stopped overnight at John O’Groats Guest House (https://www.johnogroatsguesthouse.com), which we can highly recommend. It’s run by a lovely couple, Adam and Leonna, who were very welcoming. Our bedroom was immaculate, large, and well equipped, and we had a pleasant evening meal and breakfast.
Friday 9 May: Exploring the Historic Sutherland Coast: A Day of Nature and Heritage
Another gorgeous sunny day. We have been fortunate with the weather so far.
In the morning, we headed for the Big Burn Walk in Golspie. Golspie is closely associated with the Duke and Countess of Sutherland and their central role in the brutal Highland clearances.
The Sutherland estates amounted to some 1.5 million acres and formed the biggest private estate in Europe. But when they realised they could make more money rearing sheep, they brutally and forcibly removed 15,000 people from their land. Some displaced people were resettled in coastal communities to work in the herring boom. Others were shipped abroad to Australia and North America.
Big Burn Walk is a lovely walk. It is an easy stroll through a beautiful woodland, where you can see and hear many different birds and sounds. Unfortunately, I lost my phone on the walk, and despite retracing our steps, I did not find it.
Then it was a short drive to Carn Liath Broch, which occupies a terrace overlooking the shore. The remains of the broch are impressive. The interior is deeper than the exterior, which remains partially banked. In the entrance passage, there was a cavity possibly used to guard the broch, and on the opposite side was a set of steps within the wall leading to another level.
In the afternoon, we visited the Timespan Heritage Museum in Helmsdale, a sleepy, picturesque village, and then went to Camster Cairns. These are two of the best preserved Neolithic chambered cairns in Britain. The two cairns are very different in appearance. One forms a circular structure 18m in diameter, while the other sprawls along a ridge line for 70m. There are very narrow and dark passages leading into the cairns, which you can access, but given our age and creaking bones, we chickened out and decided not to risk it.
We stayed overnight at Mackays Hotel in Wick. The welcome we received, our bedroom, and dinner were all excellent. But breakfast let them down; the staff did not appear to know what they were doing. We sat in the breakfast room for an hour, and while Sue got her porridge, my breakfast never arrived.
Thursday 8 May: A Day in Cromarty and Portmahomack: A Charming Adventure
Another beautiful sunny day. Our first stop was the picturesque village of Cromarty. Unfortunately, our early arrival (10 am) meant that most of the attractions we wanted to see were yet to open. However, we found joy in exploring the quaint streets of this charming, peaceful village. This contrasted with looking out onto the Cromarty Firth and seeing several towering oil rigs parked in the waters.
In the afternoon, we had a very enjoyable short walk to see two small waterfalls at Fairy Glen Falls. It is easy to see why this is called Fairy Glen Walk as there is definitely magic in the air as your walk through this hidden gem.
As for the fairies, it’s said that long ago, children would decorate the spring near the falls with wildflowers as a tribute to the fairies to keep the waters clear for drinking and washing. We did not see any fairies, but we did see a couple of ducks at the Mill Pond.
We ended our day in Portmahomack at The Oystercatcher, a charming bed and breakfast run by an elderly couple. The woman manages the front of the house while her husband, a self-taught chef, prepares the meals. The food was excellent, featuring the best homemade bread we have ever tasted and numerous appetisers served. The house was filled with antiques, and each room, including the bedrooms, had delightful little touches that made it feel old-worldly and special. Unfortunately, while they advertised having Wi-Fi, the signal was poor, and I couldn’t connect to the internet.
Wednesday 7 May: Culloden Battlefield and Inverness: A Historical Journey
A delightful first day in the Scottish Highlands. Lovely warm sunny weather.
We spent a fascinating morning at the Culloden Battlefield and Visitor Centre, learning about the Jacobite uprising in 1745 and the battle of Culloden.
In the afternoon, we travelled to Inverness and enjoyed a 90-minute walking tour learning more about the city, its history, and notable buildings.
We are staying overnight at the North Kessock Hotel, which is set in a lovely, peaceful location overlooking the Beauly Firth. Very nice hotel, which we are happy to recommend. The Beauly Firth is an outlet for the River Beauly and the River Ness.
One challenge is the very modern and high specification hire car, which has far too many annoying gizmos, some of which I am struggling to get to grips with and understand. It also occasionally has a mind of its own. It was quite disconcerting when I got a little bit of my lane on a dual carriageway and the car automatically moved me back over!!
Sunday 21 April
Weather: Sunny, hot extremely humid. Temperatures 28c (83f) to 36c (97f). Real feel 34c (93f) to 42c (107f).
It’s our last day in Vietnam, we’re flying home this evening. We’ve had a fabulous time and really enjoyed it. However, we’ll be glad to escape the heat and humidity and return to the cold and wet of the UK.
Saturday 20 April
Weather forecast: Hot with intervals of clouds and high humidity. Temperatures from 27c (81f) to 36c (97f). Real feel 33c (91f) to 38c (100f)
This morning, we have a tour around the Reunification Palace, which used to be the presidential Palace. On 30th April 1975, a North Vietnamese tank crashed through the gates of the Palace; this marked the end of a decade of brutal fighting against the US and South Vietnamese allies.
We are then going to the War Remnants Museum, which contains exhibits from the Vietnam War. Various planes, tanks, and heavy weapons are displayed outside in the grounds. Several people we have spoken to about the museum say it is a very moving experience.
In the late afternoon, we are off on a Sunset Cruise along the Saigon River, which meanders its way through the city.
War Remnants Museum visit—If you visit Ho Chi Minh City, set aside at least half a day to visit this museum, which tells the story of the Vietnam War. You don’t need to book a tour guide; all the displays have an English translation, and there is an information headset you can purchase. The exhibits and photos are powerful, sad, harrowing, and moving. Start on floor two, which is all about the journalists who died in the war on all sides and the photos they took. Floor one is the most is the most harrowing, showing the atrocities that took place, including the My Lai massacre and the effects of Agent Orange.
Presidential Palace—It is Worth visiting to take pictures of the Viet Cong tanks that burst through the gate, signaling the end of the Vietnam War. There were actually two tanks: one smashed through the gate, and the other dragged the gate off its hinges. The two tanks on display are copies of those tanks; the real ones are on display in Hanoi.
We found the rest of the Palace not very interesting. It was just a series of rooms for the President and his family to use, rooms for entertaining, meetings, and war rooms.
The sunset Saigon River tour was a great way to finish our holiday. We booked a small speedboat for a private one-hour trip and watched the sunset on the river on our way back.
In the evening, we visited Bui Vien Street, the main party street in Ho Chi Minh City. It was heaving with people. Music blares out from the bars and clubs, scantily dressed girls dance on podiums trying to attract you into their bars, ladies of the night offer their wares, and numerous people try to encourage you to sit in their bars or enter their clubs. It’s a deafening cacophony of noise and people, but it’s very entertaining.
Friday 19 April
Weather: Mostly sunny, excessive heat. Temperatures from 26c (79f) to 39c (102f). Real feel 31c (88f) to 42c (108f)
We were up very early today (5.30am) as we were off at 7am to the Mekong Delta, a two-hour car journey away.
The Mekong Delta encompasses a vast and fertile floodplain of the Mekong and Cuu Long rivers with a maze of waterways. It is a mass of rivers, swamps, islands, Khmer pagodas, and villages and is surrounded by rice paddies. The Mekong Delta is known for its unique rice cultivation tradition, floating houses, floating markets, and farming practices. Boats are the primary means of transportation.
We enjoyed our trip to the Mekong Delta, but it was extremely hot and humid and very tiring. We first went to a huge open-air market, then on a 20-minute boat trip down the Mekong River.
We visited a small company that processes coconuts and turns them into many different products, including milk, oil, and sweets. We then switched to a hand-rowed sampan for a trip down a smaller canal. We were the only boat on this waterway, which was very peaceful.
We had lunch at a restaurant on the Mekong River bank. We were due to go on a cycle ride, but it was so hot and humid that we canceled this and traveled back to Ho Chi Minh City.
While visiting the Mekong Delta, Scott hired a motorbike and drove to the Ben Douc Viet Cong Tunnels with a tour guide from the Saigon Riders. These are part of the Cu Chi Tunnels in the Cu Chi district of Vietnam.
Two tunnel systems are open to the public: the Ben Dinh and the Ben Duoc.
Most tour operators take tourists to the Ben Dinh tunnels, which are nearer to Ho Chi Minh City. The Ben Denh tunnels have also been modified and enlarged to accommodate taller and bigger Western tourists.
Ben Duoc tunnels are more authentic, have not been modified, and stretch over a bigger distance. So, if you want to visit the tunnels, insist that you are taken to Ben Duoc. You will miss the crowds and have a far better experience.
However, one word of warning: the Ben Duoc tunnels are very low and narrow. Our Scott had to crawl on his hands and knees to get into them; even so, he could not get far.
The tunnels were uniquely designed with multiple bends for protection against explosions, U-shaped passages filled with water to shield against toxic gases, and narrow dimensions to facilitate Vietnamese movement while hindering American forces.
Wildlife from the jungle sometimes took refuge in the tunnels, adding to the peril. Inside, entire villages were reconstructed, complete with ammunition depots, hospitals, bedrooms, meeting rooms, food storage areas, and even theaters.
Many Vietnamese would spend their entire days inside the tunnels, emerging only at night to engage in combat. This tactic confounded the Americans, who found it difficult to track the elusive Vietnamese fighters.
However, this prolonged tunnel living brought about health issues due to the subterranean living conditions and the absence of sunlight.
If you are interested in the tunnels, read this article.
What I found interesting is that the tunnels were originally built to fight the French colonists in the 1940s and then greatly extended during the Vietnam War. They stretch over 75 miles and are on three levels.
The tunnels linked villages in the Cu Chi district, which surrounded Ho Chi Minh City. They allowed the Viet Cong (South Vietnamese guerrillas supporting Ho Chi Minh and his forces in the North) and the North Vietnamese army to attack in ambushes, set up booby traps, and escape through the complex network of underground tunnels. For U.S. forces, even just finding their enemy proved difficult.
If you would like to read a short guide to the Vietnam War read this:
https://www.thoughtco.com/vietnam-war-s2-1779964
Thursday 18 April
Weather: Hot with intervals of clouds and sunshine. Temperatures from 28c (82f) to 36c (97f). Real feel 35c (95f) to 39c (102f).
This morning, we are going on a three-hour tour of Ho Chi Minh City’s main tourist sites as pillion passengers with the ladies from XO Tours. The three ladies were: Giang, Linh and Hang.
The tour was excellent but it was very hot and humid so very tiring. We visited the Central Post Office, a magnificent building built by the FrenchNotre Dame Cathedral which is undergoing restoration. The Reunification Palace, where the Viet Cong tank went through the gate and hoisted their flag, is seen as the end of the Vietnam War. The secret CIA building and the tower from the last helicopters transported staff out of Saigon. The Burning Monk Memorial commemorates Thick Quang Duc, who set himself on fire in protest at government repression of Buddhists on June 11, 1963. The hidden weapons Arsenal where North Vietnamese infiltrators stored lots of weapons and, during the Tet Offensive, attacked the Presidential Palace. Our final stop was the Ten Thousand Buddha Pagoda in Chinatown.
Wednesday 17 April
This morning, we travel to Da Nang Airport, a one-hour journey, to catch a lunchtime flight to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
We have loved our time in Hoi An. It has been great to take things easy and relax in the hot and humid temperatures.
When we arrived at Da Nang airport, we found out our flight had been delayed 45 minutes.
We arrived in Ho Chi Minh City at 4 pm. The temperature was 34c. At the taxi rank, we met numerous taxi firm salespeople aggressively trying to win our business. We were quoted 300,000 VND to go to our hotel, but we said that was too much, so he went to 250,000. When we went to walk away, we agreed to 200,000 VND, which is around £6.
We are staying at La Vela Saigon, a 4/5-star hotel in the city’s center. The chaos on the roads is worse than in Hanoi; there are still a majority of scooters but lots more cars. There is still the same total anarchy with apparently no road rules about where people can go, turn, or cross from one side to the other.
In the evening, we went on a three-hour scooter tour of the city (8 pm to 11 pm) as pillion passengers with XO Tours, a company run by women with all-women drivers. We were driven by three very enthusiastic young riders: Han, Anh, and Thao. They also had a male rider, Thinh, who followed them around to keep an eye on them and to help with things.
The tour was excellent. You would expect to be frightened riding as a pillion passenger in the madness and chaos of the traffic, but the girls were so skilled that you just relaxed, and it was great fun.
We visited Chinatown, which has a population of 300,000. It was 8 pm, but the food and vegetable street market was still open and very busy, with vendors sitting on the road with their produce piled up beside them. The vendors sleep on the street by their produce and open again the following day.
We then visited some very old and run-down flats where the founder of XO Tours comes from and where many of her relatives still live. The government wanted to knock the apartments down, but residents fought against it. We went to see one of the flats. It was very tiny; five people all related were living there. It was divided into living spaces by blankets. The cooking area was in the same area as a tiny bathroom. There was no wardrobe space, so all the clothes were hanging on a washing line throughout the flat.
The flat was owned by Mai who is known as Aunti Mai or Co Mai for endearment. Mai said that when she was growing up 14 people lived there, with some sleeping in a void between the ceiling and the roof which is about 18 inches high with no light or ventilation. They accessed this by climbing a ladder and crawling through a small opening.
Some homeless people live in what were originally bin rooms in the flats. The residents are happy for them to do this as long as they keep the space tidy and clean.
Auntie Mai was a lovely woman. She had the most amazing and welcoming smile. She said she had grown up and lived in the flats all her life, was very happy there, and did not want to leave.
Tuesday 16 April
Weather: Sunny very hot. Temperatures from 26c (79f) to 34c (93f). Real feel 32c (90f) to 40c (104f)
Our last day in Hoi An. We have nothing planned going to relax, swim in the sea, lay in the shade and enjoy the very hot weather.
Scott and Sue are going back this morning to see Ms Kim. She delivered his suits and shirts last night. Scott was very happy with two of his suits and all his shirts, but just wants a few minor adjustments to his double breasted suit.
Three interesting facts about Vietnam.
Firstly, while we in the West seek out the sun and getting a tan, Vietnamese women value being white. Having white skin is seen as being attractive. So they cover themselves up from head to toe.
Today on the beach it was in the mid 90s. We bought a few things from a lady who was wearing thick trousers and socks, shoes, a couple of blouses, a hoodie, face mask, cap, hoodie top pulled over thecap and a conical hat on top plus gloves!!
Fact two, in the war the Viet Cong fought and hid in the jungles were there was little food. The Americans fighting them had supplies dropped to them, which often went astray and were found by the Viet Cong. In the US supplies was Spam. This was not a product the Vietnamese had ever come across.
But they took to it and now Spam is sold in shops throughout Vietnam. We were told that if you go into houses of people who lived through the war you will often see empty tins of Span which they use as containers and ornaments.
Fact three if you go past a restaurant in Hoi An and the floor is covered in discarded tissues. That is a restaurant that the locals use. The restaurant owners do provide bins but locals just discard there tissues on the floor oncethey have wiped their hands. If you go in a restaurant and the floor is clean it will be one that tourists use.
Monday 15 April
Weather: Very sunny and hot. Temperatures 27c (81f) to 34c (93f). Feel like 34c (93f) to 41c (106f)
Up early this morning (6am), as we are off on The Original Hoi An Food Tour. This starts in the local market where we buy all the food then back to their kitchen to cook and taste it.
Sunday 14 April
Weather: Sunny. Temperatures 28c (82f) to 34c (93f). Real feel 35c (95f) to 41c (106f)
Morning – Going to have a relaxing morning, go for a swim in the sea and then sit in the shade on our Airbnb balcony.
Scott has to go for a suit fitting after lunch and then we are going to Hoi An silk village to learn about the origins of the silk road and the process of making silk in the traditonal manner which they still do in Hoi An.
This evening we are off to see a Vietnamese culture show at the Lune Centre in Hoi An. The show is called Teh Dar. Its an epic tale of the birth, death and rebirth of every living being on earth, told through breathtaking handling of bamboo, storytelling, circus arts and live music.
Then its back to see Lien and her family at our favourite restaurant Wild Beach for our evening meal.
Ms Kim Scott suit fitting went very well. Scott really pleased with them. Picks them up tomorrow.
Sil village was fascinating. A lady took us round showing us the whole process from silk worms through to making the final product. I can understand why genuine hand made sil products are so expensive. Sue bought a very nice silk blouse from the shop at the villge.
Teh Dar cultural show was absolutely amazing. Its very hard to describe but watch this You Tube video to see how amazing it is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OG0FdhKxtY
Saturday 13 April
Weather: Sunny partially cloudy. Temeperature 28c (82f) to 33c (91f). Real feel 34c (93f) to 39c (102f)
Today we are having a restful morning, go for a walk along the beach and a swim in the sea and then relaxing in the shade in our Airbnb Villa.
This afternoon starting at 3pm we have a five hour tour of Hoi An old town where 844 out of the 1107 buildings are on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Tour of Hoi An – Hoi An Old Town is absolutley beautiful but it was very hot and humid and very crowded. Everywhere you went you were fighting through large groups of tourists with their tour guides.This spoilt it for us even though we were also part of the problem.
We got back to our Airbnb at 7pm and were totally shattered but had enough enery to visit Lien and her family at the Wild Beach Restaurant to have something to eat. It was gone 8pm when we arrived and Lien and her husband had left to see relatives, but very kindly they returned to cook our meal which was once again superb.
Friday 12 April
Weather forecast: Sunny. Temperatures from 28c (82f) to 33c (91f)
We started our Vietnam trip in the chaos and madness of Hanoi. We then flew 300 miles to the peacefulness of Phong Nha Farmstay out in idyllic countryside near the Ho Chi Minh Trail. We have now travelled 205 miles by car to Hoi An which is on the coast.
We woke up today in Sunny Hoi An listening to the waves crashing onto the shoreline. We are staying at an Airbnb Villa which is virtually on the beach, 10 minutes by car outside of Hoi An. We have a lovely view of the sea from our balcony. We are going to have a restful day following our long journey yesterday.
After breakfast we are going for a walk on the beach, maybe a swim and then travel into Hoi An for lunch. After lunch we are going to see Ms Kim of Kim Only Tailor Fashion. Scott is wanting to buy two made to measure suits. I am trying to persuade Sue to have an Ao Dai made. This is the traditional costume for Vietnamese women, a silk tunic with pants. She is thinking about it!!
Scott ordered 3 suits and 4 shorts from Ms Kim, who was a lovely lady. But unfortunately
I was not successful in getting Susie to buy a Ao Dai. Had a lovely swim when we got back then relaxed in our Airbnb.
For our evening meal we went to the Wild Beach Restaurant which is just down the path from where we are staying. The restaurant is a family run by Lien, her sister Tai and husband Thuam who were so welcoming and friendly and so very keen to ensure we enjoyed our meal. Customer service at its very best.
The restaurant is nothing special to look at, its small just 6 tables for 4 people on each. It is in the front of the house where Lien and her family live. It is open plan, so you just walk straight in from the path. The chairs and tables are very basic, you can look back into the family living quarters while sat at your table. Liens three very boisterous and loveable young children were running round playing games, grandmother was trying to look after them the best she could.
A lot of the cooking is done outside in a yard at the side of the restaurant on what look like an old hot plate, very primitive and basic. But out of these basic facilities came the best meal we have had so far in Vietnam. We ordered a mountain of local food and the bill came to 1,135,000 VND which is £36. We left a tip of 300,000 VND which is £10 and Lien tried to give it us back saying it was too much.
We love the Vietnamese people, they don’t have much and what they do have they have to work very hard for but they are so helpful, welcoming and friendly and always smiling.
Thursday 11 April
Weather forecast: Partly sunny and hot. Temperature from 23c (7sf) to 33c (91f).
Today we leave Phong Nha Farmstay and travel by road to Hoi An, a journey of 210 miles!!
If you wish to experience the real Vietnam in an idyllic countryside setting then you must include Phong Nha Farmstay in your itinerary. We can highly recommend it.
On our way to Hoi An we are going to visit the Vin Moch tunnels which were built by villagers to escape carpet bombing by the Americans. They lived in them for four years, children were born there, children went to school, they ate there and they were cared for in the tunnels when they were sick: Hien Luong Bridge situated on the 17th Parallel where the Geneva Accords of 1954 partitioned the country: Ben Hai River Museum which contains images and items left over from the Vietnam War: and La Vang and Long Hung Churches in the demilitarised zone where fierce battles were fought between the Americans and Viet Cong which lastedfor 81 days.
We arrived Hoi An after a nine and half hour car journey. We are staying at an Airbnb Villa which is virtually on the beach.
The highlight of our journey was visiting the Vin Moch Tunnels, which were absolutely amazing. They are on five levels. Unfortunately we only had time to explore level three, but we were in awe of how they built such structures and the fact that the whole village from the youngest to the oldest lived down there for four years. I had thought the tunnel system was just for one village it actually covered a much wider area and connected a number of villages.
Wednesday 10 April
Weather Forecast: A stray morning shower otherwise clouds giving way to sun. Temperatures 22c (72f) to 32c (90f)
After our very challenging day jungle trekking yesterday, today we are taking things easy and just resting. Sue and I have booked a body massage with oil for 11am.
Tomorrow we leave the Farmstay and travel by road to Hoi An, a journey of 210 miles!!
Tuesday 9 April
Weather forecast: Rain and the occasional thunderstorm in the morning, very cloudy and not as warm. Temperature from 23c (73f) to 27c (81f).
Up very early as we are off on a 9km jungle trek through the Ma Da Valley and Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, including visiting Tra Ang Cave, Elephant Cave (Hang Voi cave) and Ma Da Lake where we can go swimming. The trip was booked via the Farmstay but organised by: https://junglebosstours.com/tour/elephant-cave-ma-da-valley-jungle-trek-1d
One issue its been raining all night and the forecast is for light showers to go on throughout the morning which will bring out more mosquitoes!! Wish us well.
The trek started with a climb up a very steep muddy hill to Elephant Cave. This was made far more challenging due to the fact that you had to clamber over many rocks some quite large which were muddy and slipery from the rain. Without staff help I doubt if Sue and I would have made it. Elephant Cave is a small cave so we had a quick look round and then moved on.
We then had an hour walk along a narrow path through thick jungle to Ma Da Lake. This was an easier walk but with the rain still falling it was very muddy and slippery under foot. We also had to cross a number of rivers on foot with the level of the water coming well over our hiking boots and soaking our legs.
We had a chance to swim in Ma Da Lake which was lovely. The more daring ones in the group, including our Scott clambered up the rocks and jumped in from quite a considerable height. After swimming we had lunch.
We then trekked for another hour through the jungle and across more rivers to Tran Ang cave. Most of the journey was relatively easy but for the last section we had clamber across a large high bolder field which was very dificuilt and very scary. Again Sue & I would not have made it without help.
Tran Ang cave is a wet cave so we had to swim 300 metres into the cave and out again to explore it. For this we had to keep our shoes and socks on and our helmets with our lights on plus our wet swimming shorts and costumes. It was a tremendous experience especially when out guide got us to turn off our helmet lights and we laid in the water in the pitch dark. There were lots of bats in the cave but they were high up in the roof of the cave so did not worry us.
We then walked for another 40 minutes through yet more wet jungle to get back to the road and meet our minibus. The light showers which had been forecast for the morning carried on all day.
We had been worried about mosquitoes, but they were not such an issue, what was a problem for all the group was leeches. I had 7 leeches attach themselves to me over the day, two of which drew blood. Scott had about a similar number. Sue got off lightly with only two. Luckily the staff team had a spray which kills them, so they were not so much of a problem as they could have been.
By the time we got on the minibus we were totally worn out, our shoes and socks were soaking wet, our clothes were damp, but we had the most amazing day one that will live in the memory for a very long time.
See photos by clicking on Flickr logo and going to Jungle Trekking 9 April album
Monday 8 April
Weather forecast: Morning, hot, cloudy, humid, occasional rain, afternoon thunderstorms. Temperatures 28c (83f) to 32c (89f).
Decided to have a lay in and a more relaxing day today. Mid-morning went out to an Eco Farm, to be shown have they harvest rubber. Scott travelled on his own bike Sue & I went out as pillion passengers again. The trees were originally planted by the French colonialists who brought them from the Amazon Basin. They used the rubber mainly for car tires. The owner of the farm and his wife were a lovely couple but it was obvious that they have a hard life and struggle to make a living. Showing tourists round his farm earns them a little extra and makes life a little easier. We then visited a Duck Farm, which I was not that bothered about but it was great fun.
As we got back it was spotting with rain, The first rain we have had. Spending the rest of the day relaxing as we are off tomorrow on a jungle trek, following the Ho Chi Minh Trail, which is going to be a long hard day.
Sunday 7 April
Weather forecast: Partly sunny and very hot with a 40% possibility of a thunderstorm in spots. Temperature 22c (72f) to 38c (100f)
We were up early to travel to Paradise Cave a journey that took 40 minutes by road. Scott went on the motorbike he has hired Sue & I travelled as pillion passengers on motor bikes driven by locals.
Once at the cave complex, we had to climb 520 stairs to get to the cave entrance, which was challenging in itself especially given the humidity and heat.
We first walked through the tourist section of the cave with its 1km long wooden walkways and special lighting. But then we went down some steps onto the cave floor and into a private part of the cave. So our caving adventure began with just the light of our head torches to guide us.
Paradise Cave is the biggest and most beautiful dry cave in Asia. Its size and scale is breathtaking: it is 31.4 kilometres long, the height can reach 72 metres and width 150 metres. In this cathedral like space, you see a vast array of different unique rock formations and numerous array of stalactites and stalagmites all different sizes which have been formed over 1000s of years.
We were headed to a point 7 kilometres into the cave where a natural skylight allows sunlight to filter through and illuminate the cavernous space below. At first the walking was relatively easy, but then it became very challenging and in places very scary and quite dangerous. Clambering up and down large rock formations, walking along slippery mud-covered ledges. We then had to swim through one section with the water only about two foot below the cave ceiling. For non-swimmers like Sue there was a kayak.
We had lunch, which cave staff had carried in, while watching the sun stream through onto the cave floor. Then it was a 7km walk back the same way as we came in.
The staff who accompanied us were brilliant at helping us get up, over and down the most difficult sections. They called Susan, Mama and throughout the walk you kept hearing them tell each other help Mama. We could not have done it without their help.
The 14k trek inside Paradise Cave was very tiring and at times scary but it was an experience like no other we have ever had. Unbelievable, its difficult to explain how unique and how beautiful the cave is.
I have put some photos which I copied from the computer into the Flickr photo albium which you get to by clicking on the Flickr logo on the left of this page. The photos are onpage two of the albium at the very end.
Saturday 6 April
Today’s weather: Very hot with a 40% probability of a stray thunderstorm.Temperatures ranging from 28c (82f) to 36c (97f).
Up early this morning for a 7am walk round the village with one of the locals who works at the Homestay and speaks English. It’s not a compact village as we see in the UK. It’s a series of houses and plots of land spread over quite a large area. Villagers grow a wide range of crops which include rice, three types of bananas, sugar cane, dragon fruit, papaya, peanuts, pineapple, corn, a sweet potato and mango. Some also keep animals, water buffalo, cows, chicken and ducks.
They used to be able to harvest four crops of rice a year but now they can only harvest one because of a lack of water coming down from the mountains.There is a lot of nice large house being built in the village paid for by young members of the family going to work abroad and sending money home.
Mid-morning travelled to Phong Nha Village Sue and I as pillion passengers on two motorbikes driven by locals, a way for them to earn extra money and Scott on a motorbike he has hired.
From the village we were motored up the river by locals taking in the views of the stunning natural Karst Mountains, until we came to Phong Nha cave. It only had a small entrance but once inside it was spectacular, it opened out into a cavernous cathedral of natural beauty that went on for a very long way.
In the Vietnam war the Ho Chi Minh trail crossed the river at Phong Nha village before continuing down south. The Vietcong constructed pontoons toallow the lorries to cross the river at night when they were less likely to be attacked by American aircraft. In the day the pontoons were kept in the cave,
together with supplies for the war and a hospital. The Americans constantly attacked the cave but because of it small opening failed to have any major effect.
We had planned then to walk up to a second cave, but this meant walking up 520 steps and it was very hot and humid, so we decided not to go. But this caused a bit of an incident, because we had booked to visit the second cave the lady who was in charge of our boat had to go with Scott to explain to the
officials in charge why we would not be visiting the second cave.
Then back to the Farmstay for 4pm to relax and rest for the rest of the evening.
Friday 5 April
Weather in Phong Nha: Partly sunny, very hot and humid. Temperatures from 26c (32f) to 36c (97f).
Up at 5am to travel to the aiport to catch a flight to Dong Hoi and from there transported by mini bus to Phong Nha Farmstay. For the next six days we will imerse ourselves in the magic of remote rural Vietnam. The Farmstay is located in Northern Central Vietnam, between the coast and the mountains. Set in idylic surroundings of rice paddy fields, tended daily by the local community, on the edge of National Park just off the Ho Chi Minh Trail.
We arrived at lunch time and are spending the rest of the day relaxing and resting.
Thursday 4 April
Weather forecast: Hot and humid, overcast at first, then sunny. Temperatures ranging from 28c (82f) to 35c (95f). Temperatures will feel like 30c (86f) to 38c (100f).
Our last day in Hanoi before tomorrow we fly off to Dong Hoi and from there are taken to the Phong Nha Farmstay.
This morning we visited Hoa Lo Prison, which was known by US pilots shot down and captured during the Vietnam war as the Hanoi Hilton. It was originaly built by the French to incacerate Vietnamese who rose up against French colonial rule.
During the vietnam war the prison was used by the Vietnamese government to lock up US pilots who had been shot down. This included John McCain who later became a Republican Senetor.
We then visited the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long which was full of young schoolchildren who were a delight to see. The citadel which was built in the 11th Century was the hub of Vietnamese military power for over a 1,000 years.
Our final visit was to the Military History Museum which has lots of photographs and exhibits relating to the Chinese occupation of Vietnam, the French colonial rule and the US Vietnam War. Very interesting.
We had a restful afternoon before going to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.This is a traditional Northern Vietnamese art form. When the rice field flooded the villagers would us this type of puppet play to entertain themselves. The shows are performed by the puppeteers in a waist deep pool so it appears the puppets are moving over the water. See the video in the itinerary.
This is our last night in Hanoi so here are a few observations.
We have loved our time in the chaotic madness which is Hanoi. The traffic is totally crazy with every person for themselves but somehow it works. No one walks on the pavements as they are covered with parked motor bikes and scooters, people selling things and people sitting on very small plastic stools eating. So everyone walks on the roads where you face traffic coming at you from all directions. The Vietnamese are a very hard-working nation, most of those who we have met have two or three jobs, but they remain upbeat and friendly. We have been very impressed by the high levels of customer service we have met and the attention to detail. The Vietnamese don’t waste anything and everywhere you go you see people mending things and making things which we would just go to the shops and buy. One final amazing thing hardly anyone smokes. In the six days we have been here we have only seen three people smoking or vaping.
Wednesday 3 April
Weather: Hot, very humid, overcast. Temperatures 24c (75f) to 28c (82f).
We spent today cruising in Halong Bay. We had travelled there on Tuesday night and stopped at the Paradise Suites Hotel. The cost for an overnight stay and breakfast was £31. What was amazing was the level of service it was like staying in a five-star hotel, the quality of the customer care, the staff, attention to detail, the rooms and the breakfast.
We really enjoyed the cruise; the boat was excellent and not too crowded. Halong Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with stunning beautiful scenery. it was nice to relax and chill out, eat excellent food, the itinerary included been taken in a sampan rowed by locals to some caves and the chance to go for a swim which we took. The level of customer service, the attention to detail and doing those small things which make all the difference was excellent.
Coleman Adventures- North Coast 500 