Saturday 17 May: A Disapointing Last Day

Another gloriously hot and sunny day, clear blue skies.

Last night, we stopped with Jan and Michael at the Rose Cottage bed and breakfast in Fort Augustus. It was superb, and we would highly recommend staying with them if you are in the area.

Today was the last day of our holiday before we fly back to Manchester tomorrow. We had planned to walk around Fort Augustus in the morning and then go out on Loch Ness in a rib in the afternoon before travelling to Inverness Airport.

However, a fault symbol appeared on our all-singing Renault Astrale Esprit Alpine hire car. After two and a half hours of being passed around in circles, Alamo finally arranged for the car to be picked up by a recovery vehicle and for the driver to drop us off at Inverness Airport. So we did not see Fort Augustus or go Nessie hunting, which was a great disappointment.

But one bit of good news: my mobile, which I lost, has been found in a pub we visited after finishing the Big Burn Walk. It had fallen into the toilet bowl and got stuck in the waste pipes. A plumber called to clear the blockage, found it!! The staff are drying it out and returning it to me, but I doubt if it will work.

It has been a wonderful holiday. The Scottish Highlands are magnificent and awe-inspiring, with their views, superb beaches, and beautiful lochs, hills, and mountains. We would recommend the North Coast 500 as a wonderful, relaxing, and peaceful holiday. You will not see better views or beaches anywhere in the world.

We’re back home tomorrow. Our first job will be to lose the extra weight we have put on, get back to sensible eating, and restart our exercise regime.

Friday 16 May: A Delightful Drive Through Amazing Countryside

Another glorious day, with bright sunshine and a clear blue sky, very warm.

Today, we leave the Gairloch Highland Lodge, which provided last-minute accommodation after our booking at the Old Curing Station on Dry Island Badachro fell through. While the hotel was basic, it was clean and offered a nice shower and breakfast. But what truly set our stay apart was the staff—exceptionally friendly and helpful, they went above and beyond to enhance our customer experience.

After leaving Gairloch, we headed to the Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve, which boasts stunning views of Loch Maree. We took a delightful one-hour walk through ancient woodlands, enjoying every moment.

Next, we ventured to Shieldaig, a picturesque village overlooking Loch Torridon. Opposite the village lies Shieldaig Island, a bird sanctuary managed by the National Trust for Scotland, where Sea Eagles have nested in recent years.

Historically, Shieldaig was established in the early 1800s to encourage local villagers to fish for herring and thus cultivate a stock of trained seamen for the Royal Navy.

Today, the local economy thrives on fishing and tourism. There are salmon farms in the area, along with a smokehouse in the village. We observed creels on the pier, used to catch what locals refer to as “prawns,” which are actually nephrops, resembling mini-lobsters. Crabs and scallops are also plentiful here.

We had lunch at Nanny’s, a charming cafe on the seafront that served delicious homemade food.

Next, our journey took us on a long (84-mile) drive across country to Fort Augustus. While this should have been an easy drive, there were long stretches of single-track roads and narrow two-lane roads that demanded full concentration and were thus very tiring. However, the phenomenal views and breathtaking scenery made every moment worthwhile.

We’re staying at Rose Cottage Bed and Breakfast in Fort Augustus, where owners Jan and Michael extended a warm and very friendly welcome. Jan eagerly showed us around the house, while Michael kindly took our luggage to our room. The house is superb and elegantly appointed, and our bedroom (Room 2) is spacious, featuring a super king bed.

Tomorrow, Saturday, marks our final day touring the Highlands. Time has flown by, but we have thoroughly enjoyed every single minute of this incredible journey.

Thursday 15 May: Relaxing Day in Gairloch

It was another lovely sunny day with clear blue skies. It was cool at first, but by lunchtime, it had become very warm.

In the morning, we were due to go on a Shellfish Safari in a traditional working fishing boat to see langoustine, creels, and lobster pots hauled from the deep, but sadly it was cancelled.

Instead, we walked around Gairloch. Gairloch is a small fishing village with a population of just under 700 situated on the shore of Loch Gairloch amongst the awe-inspiring scenery of Wester Ross.

We first visited the museum, which is housed in an old, reinforced concrete nuclear bunker built during the Cold War. Two of the six-inch reinforced doors are used as exhibition stands. The museum offers diverse exhibits highlighting local history, culture, and the natural environment. Highlights include the original lens from Rubh Re lighthouse, a replica croft house, an interactive natural world gallery, a Pictish Symbol stone, and a 25-minute video of local people discussing how life in Gairloch has changed over the last few hundred years, which was fascinating.

After the museum, we took a stroll around the picturesque small harbour. On our way there, we spotted a lovely beach in the distance, but could not see how to get there. We eventually found a sign pointing up a steep hill saying, “Beach 1km.” But despite walking for around 15 minutes, we never saw the beach!!

By the afternoon, it had become very hot, so we returned to our hotel and found a nice place in the shade to read and relax.

For our evening meal, we went to the Badachro Inn. This involved driving along a narrow, winding single-track road with many blind corners for three miles. During this, we encountered a few locals who appeared to be practicing to be motor racing drivers. But we finally made it without incident and were seated in the lovely conservatory with spectacular views overlooking Loch Gairloch. The food was enjoyable without being anything special.

We have eaten far too much this holiday. Once back home, we must return to exercise and healthy eating to lose these excess pounds.

Wednesday 14 May: Scenic Views and a Disapointing Ending

Another glorious day—sunny, with not a cloud in the sky, very hot, reminiscent of summer in Spain.

We were sad to leave Jo and Trevor at Ardmore House Bed and Breakfast. We loved our stay with them, and they easily rank as the best hosts we have encountered on this trip.

We made our way to Ullapool, the main settlement on the West Coast. The scenery and views on the drive were magnificent, reminding us of our travels in New Zealand, with narrow roads, stunning landscapes, lakes, lochs, impressive hills, and mountains. The views of Loch Broom as we neared Ullapool were simply unbelievable.

Ullapool is a charming small fishing village with quaint houses and a busy harbour nestled on the shore of Lochbroom.

We enjoyed visiting the Museum and Visitor Centre in Ullapool, which is run by volunteers and housed in an old church. It shared the story of Ullapool, the lives of the crofters, the clearances, and the rise and fall of the fishing industry over the years. The more we learn about the clearances, the angrier we feel about the cruelty and cold-heartedness of the landowners involved.

For lunch, we went to the Seafood Shack in Ullapool, a food wagon located by the side of the Ullapool Outdoors store on West Argyle Street, directly across from the Ullapool Museum. The Seafood Shack is owned by two locals, Kirsty and Fenella, who set up the business in 2016. They sell fresh fish sourced directly from local boats. We had fried haddock and salad in a wrap, which was delicious. If you are in Ullapool, we can definitely recommend it. After lunch, we had an enjoyable walk around the village and harbour.

By the time we left Ullapool the sun and travel had taken a toll on us, so we decided to skip visiting Corrieshalloch Gorge and Nature Reserve and head directly to Dry Island, Badachro, where we were booked for the night at The Old Curing Station. The journey once again treated us to magnificent scenery.

However, upon arriving at Dry Island, we discovered that the Old Curing Station was quite a distance from the parking area. Not only was it a long walk, but we also had to navigate narrow, twisting steps and traverse a very narrow, uneven concrete walkway before crossing a floating bridge made of wooden slats. There was simply no way we could wheel or carry our two large suitcases down to our accommodation.

So, we searched for an alternative place to stay and finally found a room at The Gairloch Highland Lodge, which is basic but meets our needs. We sent an email to the owner of the Old Curring Station, who replied that if we had said that, he could have arranged to have our luggage delivered to the island by boat!!

Most of the roads we traveled today were narrow, twisting, and winding, requiring full concentration. Thankfully, many were two lanes; however, we did encounter some narrow single-lane roads, and I had to reverse twice for the first time this holiday. Luckily, both times happened on straight stretches.

We were exhausted from the travel and the heat when we reached our hotel. We took a quick shower and then spent the rest of the evening relaxing.

Tuesday 13 May: A Day of Commitment and Celebration at Ardmore House

Another gloriously sunny day, the warmest so far.

The day started very well with a superb breakfast served up by Jo at Ardmore House. She makes her own bread, compote, and marmalade, all served up with a fabulous choice of food.

Then it was off to another spectacular beach, Achmelvick Bay, 10 minutes from Ardmore House. It was like being in the Bahamas: pure white sand stretching round in an arc and crystal clear turquoise blue water. So peaceful and beautiful.

A quick cup of coffee at the An Cala Cafe in Lochinver, then out on a 90-minute wildlife boat tour with North Coast Sea Tours. We did not see much wildlife, some sea birds, and seals on the rocks enjoying the sunshine, but it was delightful.

We had lunch at Lochinver Larder, which is famous for its wide range of meat pies, which it sends all over the world. Highly recommended, it can’t be booked, and at peak times, you may have to queue.

We then returned to Ardmore House to conduct a hand-fasting ceremony, during which couples re-commit themselves to each other. We sat on a bench in Jos’s garden, bound our hands with ribbon to symbolise our commitment, and read statements indicating our love for one another. 

In marriage, you often reach a point where you take each other for granted, love each other but don’t show it, presuming your partner will always be there. But when one goes, the one who is left then realises what the person they have lost meant to them. Often regretting that they did not show it more when they were together. Hopefully, our small handfasting ceremony today will remind Sue and me how important we are to each other and how we must make the most of the days we have left together and never forget to show our love for one another.

For our evening meal, we had a superb fresh crab salad that we had bought from the An Cala Cafe after our boat ride, and Jo had kindly put in her fridge for us. We ate it at Ardmore House together with Jos’s bread, which Jo had just got out of the oven, and butter. There is nothing like fresh seafood.

Monday 12 May: Breathtaking scenery on the West Coast

The day began under an overcast sky but soon transformed into blazing sunshine.

We started our day at the stunning beach where John Lennon spent his teenage holidays with his family at Sango Sands Bay, Durness. They stayed with his auntie Lizzie, who lived in the area. Inspired by these memories, he penned the song ‘In My Life’. He visited his Aunt Lizzie’s cottage with Yoko in 1969.

While perhaps not as magnificent as Strathy Bay, this beach still ranked among the finest we had ever encountered. It was absolutely stunning.

Our next stop was Balnakeil Craft Village. Despite the mixed reviews on TripAdvisor, we found it delightful. We visited several studios: Mudness Ceramics, Balnakeil Glass, Cast of Crafts, and Cocoa Mountain, a charming chocolatier and café.

A short drive brought us to the breathtaking Smoo Cave, a magnificent, cathedral-like cave that was free to visit.

Our journey then took us down the stunning West Coast toward Scourie. This involved driving down 14 miles of twisting single-track road. Despite several cars and camper vans on the road, the many pull-in stops meant I did not have to practice my reversing skills.

The West Coast scenery was nothing short of extraordinary, outshining even our cherished memories of New Zealand’s landscapes. The highlands offered an endless array of breathtaking vistas. Amazing.

We enjoyed a lovely lunch at Crofters Kitchen, a food wagon in Scourie that serves the fresh seafood caught by local fishermen. We can’t recommend it highly enough; the food was wonderful.

In the afternoon, we set out to discover Wailing Widow Falls. We had heard you had to walk up a stony path and scramble over small boulders, but we found it a little more demanding than people had made out. Despite this, we made it to the falls and witnessed a powerful waterfall cascading 50 feet from Loch na Gainmhich.

We are staying at Ardmore House Bed and Breakfast in Lochinver, which we can highly recommend. Jo, the lively, outgoing owner, enthusiastically welcomed us and delighted us by showing us around the house and our bedroom. She even offered us a laundry service, which we gladly accepted. Our spacious, well-equipped, spotlessly clean bedroom features excellent Wi-Fi, a rare find in the highlands.

The house is nestled down a long driveway, offering an isolated and peaceful refuge. This evening, Jo’s chickens made a charming escape, frolicking in the garden, and while Sue sat in the sunshine, she spotted a couple of deer gracefully wandering by.

Sunday 11 May: Exploring the Northern Highlands: A Journey to Stunning Beaches and Scenic Views

Another glorious sunny day, we have certainly struck lucky with the weather.

We have spent the first four days traveling up the East Coast from Inverness to John O’Groats. The highlands remind us of New Zealand. Everywhere you travel, there is stunning scenery; from what we have heard, the West Coast is even more beautiful.

Today, we started traveling along the northern part of the highlands. Our first stop was Dunnet Head, the northernmost point of mainland Britain. It was windy, but the views were stunning.

We then travelled to Strathy Bay, where we found the most stunning beach we have ever seen. If you are in this area, it’s a must-see location. Unfortunately, it’s not the easiest beach to find. You will not get to it if you try to use Sat Nav. Looking on Google Maps does not help either.

Directions to find it: Approach on the A836 heading towards Strathy from Melvich. After the ‘Welcome to Strathy’ sign on your left, you go over a cattle grid. Immediately look over the other side of the road. See what looks like a dirt track, which takes you up past the side of the North Coast Parish Church of Scotland, Strathy. Follow this single-track road, which twists and turns for a mile or so until you see a cemetery on your right. Turn into the beach car park immediately after this.

On our way to Durness we saw another stunning beach at Coldbackie but we could not see how to get to it from the road.

We then traveled on to Ard Neackie Lime Kilns. We parked in the lay-by that people recommend, but it was a long walk to the kilns. We would have had to walk on the road for quite a distance before making our way across a sand causeway. We decided it was not worth it.

The road from the Kilns to Durness takes you nineteen miles around Loch Eriboll with fantastic views of the loch, islands in the loch, and the hills around it. The challenge was that the road was single-lane, which I was very nervous about. My reversing skills are not good, so the thought of meeting another car or camper van and returning along the road filled me with dread. But there were lots of pull-in points and so it worked well and I did not have to practice my reversing skills.

We are staying overnight at the Wild Orchard Guest House, Durness. It’s not a guest house but a small hotel with eight identical bedrooms. It is spotless, well-equipped, and maintained, and we received a very warm welcome from Hanna, the owner. They have a small, award-winning restaurant that seats 12 people. Jack, Hanna’s partner, does the cooking. We had dinner, which was superb. It was like eating at a five-star high-end restaurant. The downside was that the bedroom was small, with little space to move around or put luggage. It had a small double bed and a tiny shower, which made it challenging to have a shower.

Saturday 10 May: Exploring the North East Coast: A Day in Caithness

Another sunny day but with a strong breeze.

We had hoped to go on a 90-minute rib tour coastal adventure with Caithness Sea Coast Tours, but unfortunately, they moved it to the afternoon, which was no good for us.

So we had a leisurely morning, not leaving our hotel until 10:30 a.m. We then looked around the Wick Heritage Centre and Museum. This volunteer-run museum is housed in three old cottages. There was a fascinating range of rooms covering numerous different aspects of Wick’s history. The place had the feel of the Tardis, as you kept finding new rooms and levels.

In the afternoon, we visited Castle Sinclair Girnigoe. These are the ruins of two castles, the 15th-century Castle Girnigoe and the early 17th-century Castle Sinclair, located in a stunning coastal setting. One gruesome tale concerns the 4th Earl of Caithness, who imprisoned his son John Sinclair in Castle Girnigoe on suspicion of rebelling against him. He was held for 7 years, after which his father fed him a diet of salted beef with nothing to drink, so that he eventually died insane from thirst.

We ended the day at John O’Groats, which most people consider the most northerly point of the British Mainland. This title should go to Dunnet’s Head, which is 2.35 miles further north than John O’Groats.

John O’Groats was disappointing; there is very little to see, and it has a rundown feel. More interesting is Duncansby Head, which is a short drive away. Here you can follow the coastal path to see the Geo of Sciaites, a huge gap in the cliffs on which there are thousands of sea birds, and a little further on are the very impressive Duncansby Head Sea Stacks, which rise 60m from the sea.

We stopped overnight at John O’Groats Guest House (https://www.johnogroatsguesthouse.com), which we can highly recommend. It’s run by a lovely couple, Adam and Leonna, who were very welcoming. Our bedroom was immaculate, large, and well equipped, and we had a pleasant evening meal and breakfast.

Friday 9 May: Exploring the Historic Sutherland Coast: A Day of Nature and Heritage

Another gorgeous sunny day. We have been fortunate with the weather so far.

In the morning, we headed for the Big Burn Walk in Golspie. Golspie is closely associated with the Duke and Countess of Sutherland and their central role in the brutal Highland clearances.

The Sutherland estates amounted to some 1.5 million acres and formed the biggest private estate in Europe. But when they realised they could make more money rearing sheep, they brutally and forcibly removed 15,000 people from their land. Some displaced people were resettled in coastal communities to work in the herring boom. Others were shipped abroad to Australia and North America.

Big Burn Walk is a lovely walk. It is an easy stroll through a beautiful woodland, where you can see and hear many different birds and sounds. Unfortunately, I lost my phone on the walk, and despite retracing our steps, I did not find it.

Then it was a short drive to Carn Liath Broch, which occupies a terrace overlooking the shore. The remains of the broch are impressive. The interior is deeper than the exterior, which remains partially banked. In the entrance passage, there was a cavity possibly used to guard the broch, and on the opposite side was a set of steps within the wall leading to another level.

In the afternoon, we visited the Timespan Heritage Museum in Helmsdale, a sleepy, picturesque village, and then went to Camster Cairns. These are two of the best preserved Neolithic chambered cairns in Britain. The two cairns are very different in appearance. One forms a circular structure 18m in diameter, while the other sprawls along a ridge line for 70m. There are very narrow and dark passages leading into the cairns, which you can access, but given our age and creaking bones, we chickened out and decided not to risk it.

We stayed overnight at Mackays Hotel in Wick. The welcome we received, our bedroom, and dinner were all excellent. But breakfast let them down; the staff did not appear to know what they were doing. We sat in the breakfast room for an hour, and while Sue got her porridge, my breakfast never arrived.

Thursday 8 May: A Day in Cromarty and Portmahomack: A Charming Adventure

Another beautiful sunny day. Our first stop was the picturesque village of Cromarty. Unfortunately, our early arrival (10 am) meant that most of the attractions we wanted to see were yet to open. However, we found joy in exploring the quaint streets of this charming, peaceful village. This contrasted with looking out onto the Cromarty Firth and seeing several towering oil rigs parked in the waters.

In the afternoon, we had a very enjoyable short walk to see two small waterfalls at Fairy Glen Falls. It is easy to see why this is called Fairy Glen Walk as there is definitely magic in the air as your walk through this hidden gem.

As for the fairies, it’s said that long ago, children would decorate the spring near the falls with wildflowers as a tribute to the fairies to keep the waters clear for drinking and washing. We did not see any fairies, but we did see a couple of ducks at the Mill Pond.

We ended our day in Portmahomack at The Oystercatcher, a charming bed and breakfast run by an elderly couple. The woman manages the front of the house while her husband, a self-taught chef, prepares the meals. The food was excellent, featuring the best homemade bread we have ever tasted and numerous appetisers served. The house was filled with antiques, and each room, including the bedrooms, had delightful little touches that made it feel old-worldly and special. Unfortunately, while they advertised having Wi-Fi, the signal was poor, and I couldn’t connect to the internet.